Crisfield & Smith Island: A Bucket-List Ferry Day Trip
For a day trip you'll be talking about long after the stay, point the car south to Crisfield and catch the ferry to Smith Island. It's a journey into a way of life the rest of the country has mostly forgotten — a working watermen's community out in the Bay, reachable only by boat, and the birthplace of Maryland's official dessert. Here's how to do it from Hooper's Island.

Crisfield: Crab Capital of the World
Down at the southern end of Maryland's Eastern Shore, the small city of Crisfield has long worn the title "Crab Capital of the World." It's a genuine working seafood town with a deep crabbing and oystering heritage, and it's the mainland gateway to the Bay's offshore island communities. It makes a fine stop in its own right — waterfront, fresh seafood, and small-town Chesapeake character — and it's where you'll board the boat.
The ferry to Smith Island
Smith Island is Maryland's only inhabited offshore island — the last inhabited island in the state with no bridge and no airstrip. The only way there is by boat, and passenger ferries and cruise boats make the trip from Crisfield. Out on the island, about 350 people live across three small communities — Ewell (the largest), Tylertown, and Rhodes Point — sustaining a traditional watermen's culture that has changed remarkably little over the generations. It's flat, quiet, and best explored on foot, by bike, or by golf cart. Ferry schedules are seasonal and limited, so plan your day around the boat times and confirm the current schedule before you go.

Birthplace of the Smith Island cake
Smith Island is the home of the Smith Island cake, Maryland's official state dessert — many thin layers of cake alternating with frosting, the classic version being yellow cake with chocolate fudge frosting. Tasting a slice where it was born, in a tiny island bakery or café, is reason enough to make the trip. (Want the full story of the cake first? We've got a whole post on it.)
Explore the islands from a Bay basecamp
The Bayside Escape sleeps 24 on the Chesapeake Bay in Fishing Creek, MD — a comfortable home base for bucket-list Eastern Shore day trips. Create a free account and get $100 toward your first direct booking.
Planning your day
- It's a full day. Crisfield is well to the south in Somerset County, so plan an early start and build the day around the ferry times.
- Book the boat ahead when you can, and double-check the season's schedule — service is limited and weather-dependent.
- Travel light on the island. There's no need for a car on Smith Island; walk, rent a bike, or take a golf cart.
- Bring cash and patience. This is a small, remote community — services are limited and the pace is delightfully slow.
- Save room for cake. It's the edible souvenir of the trip.